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1: HELP - BRAKE REPLACEMENT CHECK LIST

Model: brakesPoorHe
As an additional guide.. this might help people over time... ..... DONT JUST BLAME A PART Don't have time to read this below ??.. but have a suspected booster issue.. then at LEAST read this link to the USA suppliers MBMbrakes who supply th...
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  • brakesPoorHe

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As an additional guide.. this might help people over time...

..... DONT JUST BLAME A PART

Don't have time to read this below ??.. but have a suspected booster issue.. then at LEAST read this link to the USA suppliers MBMbrakes who supply this stuff all day every day...https://mbmbrakes.com/brake-booster-diagnostics/

Again.. its crook when your car will not start..but deadly when it does not stop.. seek proffessional help with brake work.

  • Be aware your changing the factory Specified Brakes.. ones  the car came with.. or that you think it did unless you owned it from the start or absolutely know its history etc.  There can be legal complications in some states to do this. Check if in doubt. 
  • These brake systems are as close as possible to the factory era correct design.. they are additionally IMPORTANTLY .. matched with the same specs GM engineers spent untold amount of time perfecting.
  • The Master cylinder for example.. is not something off a HOLDEN or Ford  or something chrome out of China off ebay...etc.. its a service duplicate of a cast iron bore and stroke original.  Some carry  GM casting numbers.. and come in bling or cast.
  • The booster is the same.. down to some of them if wanted having the GM Delco stamping ..they are more conveniently now provided in a stainless bling finish or black or copper type colour...  AND depending on what your building.. or how much room you have around the RH or LH drive engine bay.. how big say the valve covers are ie on a BIG BLOCK.. if you need a longer but narrower booster.. say from 11 inch to 9 or maybe 8.. this can be done with a DOUBLE Diaphram booster usually at no more cost.. giving a lot of vacuum reserve in a narrower booster. This can be done here.
  • Calipers.. You hear people say they have .. I don't know.. calipers with 500 pistons of something.. alloy ones with red racing strips on the etc.. connected to a master THEY HOPE actually has the fluid volume to fill these calipers under pressure.  Sure they look good and if engineered by say Holden or Chevy with all the calipers, hose bore sized, booster, prop or limiting valves and calipers and rear brakes all engineered and tested  and that entire set up is on your car that the manufacturer put on their car entirely.. and with thousands of hours work involved..approved.. GREAT.   Otherwise its  a mongrel - be SO carefull.
  • Calipers supplied are again GM Duplicate.. good size common enough pads.. bigger then say HQ.. built for about 16 years of GM late 60's to mid 80's cars..it was made to work with the master and proportioning valve supplied when you get the kit.. as are the hose's bore size.
  • Rotors.. your getting GM service duplicate parts.. some if chosen are Slotted and drilled for a bit more grip under pressure.. but are again.. same design as factory.

    In the end..the last thing you want is crook brakes.... trial and errors in brakes..urrr.. don't always end well.  Disc brakes at least on the front are way more service friendly .. easier to drive with then drums. Just keep respect for the time GM and other auto manufacturers have put into making a system compatible.

     This is what we supply.

 

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